Hey everyone I have designed a simple K-Cup holder for a Kuerig K45 Coffee Machine and decided to share it with you. I have designed it in Sketch Up and have posted the pictures here in this post. If you would like the .skp file to use in Sketch Up on your machine just email and I will send it to you. I have just gotten one myself and love it because of the one cup at a time and the seemingly infinite number of flavors. I used box joints for the top and a simple dado groove for the bottom of the actual box. The reason I did that is I saw no need to make box joints on all 4 corners when the bottom will not even be seen where it is placed on the counter but obviously it would be just as easy to add them to the bottom if you would like. So the basic dimensions allow for the Kuerig to sit on top and it has some extra space for a basket of other things you may want like sugar or spoons or you could even store a couple of cups if you would like.
The wood that I used was some very old redwood and will not use that again for such a purpose because of how dry it is and when I started I thought it would be much harder. It is actually a very soft wood and in some aspects difficult for me at least to get a tight fit on the joints. There is some real finesse and patience needed to work with this wood both of which I have a limited supply of! I picked up this wood awhile back when a friend was doing some remodeling of there home. This is actually siding from underneath the siding they were tearing off to change. A very unexpected and cool find. So I got the call and took a drive over but was beaten to the punch by another of there friends who had gotten there just before me. Luckily enough I was able to dumpster dive and salvage a few good pieces. I wish I had 10 more pieces to make a table top because this stuff is a 80 years old I think and very beautiful. I am happy just to have the pieces that I do because I have heard that this is difficult wood to get a hold of these days.
So building this project I learned how to get better fitting box joints. I am on a quest to get better at doing small projects with different joinery all with hand tools to make my woodworking skills better. I think that by doing these projects with hand tools it is going to force me to slow down and take the time to really understand what I am doing and the reason that one uses a certain type of joinery over another. Plus I think it will increase my patience and help me to slow down. Something I have been striving to do because I have been realizing that most if not all of my mistakes are from rushing through these things and not taking the time to get it just right. I say to myself all the time that no one will notice or don’t worry about it just get it done!
So here are some details on how we would build this. People with the Sketch Up file can generate a cut list with the plug in“Cut List” available on the Sketch Up site. My first step was to get my wood prepared. I took some planks that were all different widths and milled them to the same thickness. These planks were 1″ x 8″ x 10′. I wanted the box to be 12 1/2″ x 13″ so the actual width allowed for some easy milling to size. This I did by running the planks through the table saw for each side lengthwise. This allowed for a nice straight cut parallel to each other. I then cut them close to length for all my needed pieces on my small table saw sled. Next we have to get the pieces the same thickness so we do that by putting them through the planner. (Just a note here on the planning.) I could have run these through in one length first but I think it easier to get close to the actual size of all the pieces needed and then run them through. For me it is easier to handle the smaller lengths and I think it saves any unnecessary planning of wood that will not be used in the project and wear the blades unnecessarily. I do leave all the pieces an inch or two long in case there is any snipe. Snipe is basically any beginning or ending deeper planning marks caused by the entrance or exit of the board from the knives. No matter what you do sometimes this just happens. We then put the boards on the bench and make sure we have the amount needed and all the boards are the same thickness in case we did forget one! At this point I like to plan out my glue up and see which sides look best together. I take four pieces and glue 2 together for the top and two together for the bottom. I take all the rest of the pieces and dimension all of them at the table saw. After the top and bottom plates are dry I dimension them as well. Now is the time to do your joinery. I chose box joints for the top with very large pins at that. The reasoning behind this is I wanted to do them by hand and need tons of practice so to put pins at half inch centers seemed like I was asking for trouble having to be more precise. I know I need more practice but I didn’t want to fail either by making it unnecessarily hard. You can of course center yours anyway you see fit. I believe that when the strength is not needed we can use aesthetic value as our guide or in my case practice!
Let’s not forget our dado for the bottom of our sides at bottom plate. Simple grooves done at the table saw. Just use half the thickness of you wood as your guide and sneak up on it with a scrap piece and they will fit perfect! If you notice for the back panel there is also a dado need so the back is not seen from the side view. You can do this on the table saw for the top and bottom but the sides need to be done with and router plane as in my case. (the hand tool thing again) Or perfectly easy to do with a router. All you have to worry about is stopping just before the end and cleaning and squaring up that portion with a chisel. Now we need to go to the scroll saw with our 1/4″ plywood piece to cut out our letters. I used a piece of paper printed out from my computer and cut that out, not perfect just close, so I could spray glue it to the plywood for a template. If you do not have a scroll saw any hobby store sells pre made letters for very cheap and then it’s just a matter of painting and gluing them on when the project is finished. I glue and then pin it. At this point we can get to the glue up after some sanding that I like to do just to clean up any plane marks or table saw marks. I have a grooved table saw top so I frequently get some marking from it.
Now we just glue up an set it to dry and after it drys we do our finish sanding and actual finishing which I did some Watco oil. I really like that finish and it turns out darkening the natural color just a bit which is what I wanted because this wood was already so dark. We glue and pin the painted letters on and we are done! Thanks for stopping by and as always “If I Can Do It So Can You!”
Hey Everyone! I think this is the Best wooden iPad case I have designed yet! This time I went back to trusty old Sketch Up to do the design and make sure all the bugs I ran into in the previous versions didn’t crop up here. I think I have fell upon the best one so far. The key words are “So Far”. Who knows maybe in a few days or months I will have a design that I like much better or with the help of some of you and your ideas we can refine this thing to be the best ever! For a wooden case I think the foremost thing on my mind is the weight. and then a very close second would be the strength. Really, either of those can be interchangeable. Obviously you want it strong so your rather large investment into a luxury item is safe. Equally as important is the weight of the holder with the iPad in it because you will be holding it for possibly long periods of time and you don’t want it to be heavy. Next that brings up how comfortable it is to hold. I am talking not only breaking the corners but also bringing it down to a very fine and smooth finish. Next we want to make sure we don’t scratch the thing sliding it in and out and that is what the felt is for. If you look at the top and took it off you would see that it is held on by magnets. The magnets will be glued into the top piece and screws will be inserted into the case itself for the magnets to grab. I’ve made a cavity at the bottom to redirect the sound towards me and with the last version I found out it needed some softness so that area will be lined with felt. That will absorb the tinny sound and deepen it up a bit. The redirection of the sound actually makes it sound much louder and I was pleasantly surprised. There is a hole for the main function button and one for the camera. I decided not to worry about the volume controls because that can be controlled on screen and the top power button can be accessed by just puling off the top. This may turn out to be a little inconvenient, I shall see. I added the most important measurements to the drawings you see here but if you would like just email me and I will send you the .skp file so you can change it if you would like. It may be nice to have a starting point to then manipulate to your own design. I know this is very simple but sometimes it is nice to have most things done for you already it might save you some time. So let me know what you think and as always “If I can do it So Can YOU!”
I have been making versions of an iPad holder. I have totally finished none of them so far! As for the pics remember this is the first mock up so there are plenty of imperfections. In a mock up I am not so worried about mistakes with the router going to deep or things like that. This was a good chance to practice free hand techniques with my Colt size router that I normally always use with a straight edge or template. I have made three attempts at this and have still not come up with a design that I am comfortable with. My thinking on this is that I want it to be light but made out of wood and I want to have an area for the speakers to be redirected from facing down to forward. The first version is the best so far but the subsequent two are terrible. I am wondering to myself how I got so far off the mark when the first one was so close! The first one is picture here and the speaker redirection was very simple. Just a cavity and then holes drilled to let the sound escape. It works surprisingly well. One mistake that I have made through this whole process is that I have been just winging it. I should have at least did a simple sketch an being the fan I am of Sketch Up I should have started there. I know the troubles I am having with the last iteration of the holder would have been noticed if I drew it first there in 3D. So thats what I am going to do! Wish me Luck!
Hey everybody I have been posting on Google+ about this issue. I am in the market for a router plane because I make a lot of carcasses that have dados and rabbits in them. I am sick of using the chisel to get the grooves right. I always end up going a little deep especially on plywood and although that isn’t the worst thing it just takes to long. I can picture in my head the ease and speed of the perfect dado with this tool! So as I was surfing around looking for one, I always first start on Craigslist and then move to Ebay, I couldn’t believe the prices people are getting for these planes! When I saw that I surfed to Lee Valley and looked at their Veritas plane. To my surprise they are not that much more than the going rate for a used one. Now I get the whole old tool thing and especially old planes. The reason I go that route is for the fact that they are much better tools and of course the “Wow” factor. There is just something totally cool about getting and fixing up an old plane. Then when you start to use it there are the thoughts of, at least through my head, who used this plane and what kind of work it has seen. As I plane it takes me to a cool place and I love it. Ok, once I come back to reality I also don’t want to get bamboozled out of all my money. I mean I know these are cool planes (the old ones) but when you look at the newer version from Lee Valley I just see a much better and more versatile plane that will come ready to plow out of the box and no they are not paying me to say that. (Geez I wish!) So as I was surfing around I found this web site from Perth Australia and a guy named Derek who makes a lot of his own tools including a router plane. Here is the link to that page intothewoodshop.com. Before I saw this page I had in my mind that I would try to make my own but it was just a passing thought. Once I saw this i realized how easy it would be to go ahead and make one. This will be the first “real tool” I will make. I have made jigs and other things for the shop but nothing I would consider a tool. So this is new territory for me and I think a very got project to get my feet wet in that area of woodworking. I have always wanted to make certain things that end up being to expensive or are just cool but never had given it the time that it needs to get it done. I am the t type that needs a few things going at once to feel comfortable. It is a blessing and a curse because I have a hard time slowing it down and want to get things done now. That is your enemy in endeavors such as these. You have to be will ing to know that this may not be done today or even next week and that the objective is to get it right not get er done!
So I have another project that went awry and decided to right that wrong and use that wood to build this. It is the perfect thing to use. I had gotten an old wooden plane for like 5 bucks from somewhere and don’t remember but I had tried to fix it. It was the size of a number 7 or so and the front had worn down so much that it was digging into the wood. The mouth was very wide and it pretty much rendered it useless. I had tried to rectify that but failed and ruined the thing. So I took a chunk of it and made the router plane body which is where I am at now. I need to drill a hole to accept the holder for the blade, an eye bolt, and notch out a seat for the blade so it cannot spin. I went looking around yesterday and couldn’t find and brass collars or thumbscrews so I am going to use just what is available until I can work that out. The tool will look much better and probably work smoother if I can locate those things. So the process I used to make it was very simple. I marked out the piece using most of Derek’s dimensions and then later realized I could have just printed his template but my piece of wood was just a few millimeters thinner than his so that wouldn’t have worked anyway. So I tweaked that and finally got a shape I was happy with and took it to the scroll saw. Chucked a new coarse blade and it cut slow but very nice and smooth so there was minimal sanding. I then took it to the drill press and drilled the three holes on top. Next I took it to the vise and used my dovetail saw to cut the slope on the front. For the slope in the back I just used a file and kept testing the grip until I was happy. So then I just took to filing and sanding the rest to get the final shape. There is one flaw in the plane body and that was unavoidable if I wanted to use this piece of wood. There is a hole drilled right where the handle was on the original plane and where this handle ends up. I will have to fill that with something. It just looks bad but I don’t think it will hamper the quality of use at least I hope not. i think it has turned out rather well so far but the real test will be the blade installation. That will be key as to wether this thing will work at all. If the blade is not square to the body then you will never be able to get a nice cut. I will post again once I have located the rest of the parts and finish it up. Until then, as always “If I can do it so Can YOU!”
I have been trying to use more hand tools in my woodworking which brings up the issue of sharpening. Well I do not have lots of money to throw at a Tormek system but I may be able to pick up a Worksharp. Especially if I could find one used. I have been sharpening with sandpaper glued to some 1 1/4″ thick plexi glass that is nice and flat. It does take a long time when you get a blade that was not sharpened properly before you got it. I picked up a old plane on Ebay and the iron was not very well taken care of so it took awhile to get it into shape. I also have some turning tools which are next to impossible for me to sharpen that way. I am sure it can be done but for me I can’t do it properly yet. So if anybody has any opinion on this let me know! I will let you know if I get one.
Here are some simple toy cars and trucks I made for my four year old son. Very simple to make and I got the template from ToymakingPlans.com. I like the site but the plans seem rather expensive to me. The templates I downloaded are very simple and free. I think anyone could have drawn these without much trouble. You could really just take a picture of any car or truck and trace it. You can then figure out which items on those pics you would like to cut out or make small pieces to glue on. Not very difficult. I used my bandsaw for the out line then a disc sander to finish it up. I then used a scrollsaw for the windows.
Just got back from my ten day vacation! Happy to be home but didn’t get to see my granddaughter Zyla being born. I really want to be there when it happens but i can not. I have to be here the first week of October no if ands or buts.
I made this potting bench from one of the Woodworking for Mere Mortals plans. I am a very big fan of WMM and Steve Ramsey’s You Tube channel. Here is a link http://www.woodworkingformeremortals.com. I loved the way it looked and the fact it costs nothing to build! This is our second year in a place where we could plant. The bench is made from just old pallets. The only thing I paid for was the nice hooks which I already had. I saw this video the night before and happened to be driving by this big pile of pallets with a sign that said “Please take Free”! I needed a potting bench so I pulled over and loaded a couple and within the afternoon I had my bench. The wife loved the look and it is functional. I didn’t put the dry sink in because we do not mix anything up for planting. I put it right next to the hose and added the hose real to the side. Now I put the car wash stuff there as well. A win-win situation!
This is the first thing I built furniture wise in about twenty years. I think I did well. I didn’t do any joinery but but joints and what I call lay overs. I used some pocket hole screws and that is really it. It has gotten me interested in making things more out of wood than out of metal. I used to make mostly metal stuff.